Log of the ELISSA II: Jacksonville to Fernandina Beach to Cumberland Island 6/22-23/13

06/19-21/13: This is to cover two separate days and builds upon our last entry (06/09/13) and our visit to Indy. BACK ON THE WATER AT LAST!!!. Left Indy on 06/19, drove to London KY to visit Colonels (Retired) Rob * Debbie Kissel (Deb commanded one of my Companies in the 14^th Bn, 4^th CST Bde “back in the day”). Left London, KY on 06/20 and arrived on the Ortega River (Boatyard where we had left the E II for some repair work. Arrived around 1700, loaded boat, spiffied it up a bit and then went to local eatery (The Brick) for a truly great meal. This restaurant is in the Avondale neighborhood (@ 2 miles from Ortega Landing Marina for other Loopers). I had the best scallops ever! AM I did maintenance chores on boat while Bonnie visited the NAS Jacksonville Commissary for provisions. On the way @ 1245 for the lengthy (8 mile, 45 minute trip down to the Jacksonville Town Docks - neat (and free) place to stay. The riverfront park is lovely for long walks or biking. However, the commercial part of the Landings shows the effects of the Recession which is sad, as there obviously was much promise. Off in the AM tomorrow for 1^st day of projected 23 day (leisurely) cruise to the Chesapeake Bay & the Parsons/Sweeney family. (They live just across the parking lot of Old Point Comfort Marina, previously the Ft Monroe Marina, just at mouth of the Bay). We spent the afternoon dodging thunderstorms while walking and checking out the Landings shops—didn’t take long! We did have lunch at the Irish Pub-I had something “Irish” yummy that was shrimp in a creamy remoulade sauce wrapped in a Potato Pancake—guess it was an Irish Crepe but called a Boxdy! There was a band until 1 AM but we heard mostly the drumbeats. We were still so full from lunch, opted for an Asparagus frittata light dinner!

Our dockage at Jacksonville Landings

Cummer Museum of Art where my sister, Nancy, showed some of her art

Asparagus Fritatta with Rosmary Flat Bread

Jacksonville Landings

06/22: Departed JAX docks at 0730, cloudy, threatening rain. About 25 miles on the St Johns R. got us back to the ICW on Sisters Creek. Immediately past the bridge at entrance to creek, on left (west) side of waterway is a FL state park where we found a FREE pump out station (removing human waste from holding tank). Needless to say, we invested 20 minutes in clearing our tank. By this time radar had storm cells all over the map and we continued through numerous rain squalls (but no serious winds). The noon marine weather indicated “numerous showers & T’storms, some severe w/high winds and a frontal system passage at night with storms & “dangerous” winds. Was enough for us and we ducked in to the Fernandina Beach Harbor Marina, passing on original plan to anchor out. By 1300 (and total of 41 miles) we were snug in a slip. It rained off/on all afternoon. The marina is in the heart of the Historic District of Fernandina Beach. Thus the girls and I were provided with a lovely locale to stroll through while dodging various squalls that blew in. The town is an “old Florida Town” that got its start with the Trans-Florida Railway to Cedar Key-carried passengers and lumber. As times changed, “snow-birders” came for Florida vacations and thus the resort community was born. It has retained its quaintness and seems to have rejected the glitz of other parts of Florida. This also is a shrimp center so had to pick up a pound of just caught jumbo shrimp J. Dinner was sautéed shrimp with sweet ginger garlic seasonings, corn on the cob and Green salad with blueberries, apples, almonds and Blue Cheese Dressing.

Original Train station at Fernandina Beach

Our supplier for shrimp and snapper

Mega Moon

Mosaic decorated Art Gallery

One of many lovely homes

06/23: In AM toured town on bikes & had a fine breakfast. Rode (@ 7 miles) through all the back streets and out to the Atlantic. Breakfast at Jack’s and Diane’s was a good impulse-I had one of their “Bowls” like a Tapas for $5-just the right amount of grits, egg, ham, cheese, guacamole and hot sauce (on the side) Yumm. Back on board and prepping for departure by 1030…just in time for a torrential rain that lasted until @ noon. Left the harbor at 1230 under clearing skies on the way to the Cumberland Island National Seashore, about 8 miles away. Tied up at the Park Service “Day Dock” (vessels welcome on space avail basis – day use only) at 1515 and took of – with dogs – on tour of south end of Island. Was a delightful area, BUT, it was HOT. Haleigh was running out of steam when we arrived at beach area, complete with warning signs about harsh conditions on beaches. We split up; Bonnie to finish via the beach route, Bill to return dogs to boat. Was a long (and for dogs) a hard hour+. All hands back on board by 1730 and securely anchored off the shore by 1800. The “Sun Shower” felt great, the ice cold Sam Adams felt even better. As our nephew. Matthew Hollister says, “This was an awesome day”! Starting with the bike ride and followed with Cumberland Island. It continues to be a “wild” preserve. In 1972 what few residents lived there rejected efforts to commercialize like other Barrier Islands and ceded land to the Department of Interior. They are able to continue to live there and to drive private vehicles. Access to the Island is by ferry from St Mary’s GA or private boat. The Timucuan Indians lived here for 3000 years. The Spanish came in the 1500’s. In the 1700’s came the English and following the Revolutionary War, patriot GEN Nathanael Greene received a land grant. In the 1890’s, Thomas Carnegie, Andrew’s brother, and family built Dungeness and other family homes. Unfortunately they have succumbed to fire but the ruins continue to amaze re: the genteel lifestyle lived on a remote island. There is a herd of wild horses. About a dozen greeted us as we visited the former Carnegie estate. When Bill returned with the girls to cooler, more shady areas (I did bring their own water supply but at nearly 13, it was a bit much for Miss Haleigh), I proceeded on to the boardwalk over a salt water marsh. Tide was out so saw all the fiddler crabs scurrying along the mud flats and another Roseate Spoonbill! I then climbed one trail thru the dunes and voila, the Atlantic. Headed north to trail back to Bill, enjoying walking along a beach and encountering lots of sea creatures and shorebirds -horseshoe crabs, jellyfish, Ghost Crabs, blue oil barrel, another horse, terns and sandpipers. It was a mile back to the ICW (in all about a 5 mile walk/hike) thru a trail through the dunes and Live Oak and palm forests. Campgrounds are pretty rustic and each has it’s own little trail to its spot. Not sure how comfy I’d be with the alerts re: snakes, gators, armadillos, etc. Once I met Bill and the girls we still had a mile walk back to the boat at the Dungeness Docks. Lovely quiet anchorage. Due to our breakfast (at 9 AM), or was it all the exercise, or the heat, we chose a light meal of a cheese/fruit/shrimp (leftovers) board and followed by a scoop or two of Ice Cream-loving that freezer!