Log of the ELISSA II: Cumberland Island, GA to Beaufort, SC 6/24-28/13

06/24: Off anchor at 0705 to Cumberland Island Park dock (walk the dogs) then off up the Frederica River (an old ICW route with no navaids but magenta course line still appeared on charts). Had to pass under a Causeway to St Simons Island, GA with “nominal” vertical clearance of 9’; our height is 12.5’. Thought we couldn’t get thru, but, thanks to local knowledge from Harbormaster at Golden Isles Marina (he showed us the a side opening that was higher than the center span) we made it through. Just north of the causeway was a day dock that we tied to for a few hours. Walked the girls through a pretty riverside park and then rode bikes around the western edge of St Simons Island. The plan was to ride around St Simons however, the 2 lane roads were so busy with traffic, we decided safety won out and just cruised the quiet roads of theEpworth Methodist Retreat Center and a few nice neighborhoods-our cardio workout for the day. Upon return to the Elissa II, it was LOW tide (was a 9 ft tide) and the ramp to the dock was a STEEP incline. Bill helped me with my bike coming and going, as I’d have ended up just going downhill into the river! At 1730, @ 44 miles from Fernandina Beach we anchored in the river, just north of Ft Frederica. O/night experienced strongest tides to date. We anchored in 15’ – about 5 hours later, depth was 25’ – 10 feet up, 10 feet down. Was a beautiful AND HOT day from dawn till dark. Our anchorage began in a narrow creek with muddy banks leading to the salt marshes. Much later at HIGH tide we have the experience of being anchored in a sizeable lake! These tides are awesome-learned they are the most extreme in the US and most parts of the world.

One steep ramp at LOW tide

Anchoring off Ft Federica National Park was an option as it had a dinghy dock BUT only at HIGH tide, which would occur @ 11 PM. Not an option!

Lone Palm amid the salt marsh

Isolated home amid the salt marsh

06/25: Had a long day planned as we wanted to build up a “time cushion” to permit longer stay times when visiting friends or exceptionally neat places on the way to the Chesapeake. So, we were off at 0700 for 8 hours of rivers & streams that comprise the Intra Coastal Waterway (ICW). Again, weather fine but hot. Entire route is seemingly endless vistas of salt marsh and tributaries. Since entire route is tidal we were subject to strong assists (about plus 2 Kts when going with the flow and a minus 2 when opposed). At 1500 hours and after 68 miles, we landed at the Delegal Creek Marina, about 20 miles from Savanna GA. The Marina is embedded within a gated community – a large number of lovely homes AND 6 golf courses and 150 Lagoons (with gators!). They were most hospitable, providing all the services you should expect (all first rate, clean and accessible) and them some, like a loaner golf cart to tour area and guest pass to the Island’s Club.

He kayaked over to the marsh and was fly fishing-in the mud and bare feet-no gators there but wild boar!

06/26/13: Spent AM cleaning boat, filling/emptying tanks. Away at 1220 under threatening skies and a plethora of pop-up t’storms throughout area. Made slow progress as there are many “SLOW-NO WAKE” zones along the ICW; no doubt, they are there to protect sumptuous waterside homes and associated boats. Made anchorage on Broad Creek, Hilton Head Island 42 miles and 5.25 hours later. On the way we were surrounded by storms but only actually experienced 3 and that was merely a glancing blow of short duration. (Once in Charleston, 3 days later, learned Charleston‘s downtown had been flooded along with tornado warnings) Tomorrow we are off to Beaufort SC for a visit with Teri Maude.

Lovely home along the meandering creeks of the ICW in SC

This is one BIG private vessel!

A scene ffrom the Mekong River but on the SC ICW

Hilton Head

A Great Blue Heron

at Hilton Head Marina-a live aboard

Hilton Head Para-Sailing

Boat full of hopefull fishermen

06/27/13: Another day in “pop-up” alley. Again, we were threatened frequently but never actually getting hit. Left anchorage on Broad Creek @ 0915 for the 4 hour, 28 mile run to Beaufort, SC. Took a slip in the Beaufort City Marina - less than 3 miles from Teri Maude’s house; Teri being the primary reason for our stop there. (We shared a wall in Colonels duplex quarters at Ft Ben Harrison with Teri & Tim Maude & their two daughters. We have remained friends ever since though Tim was killed on 09/11 as the highest-ranking casualty – Lt. General - of the plane/ground attack on the Pentagon). Beaufort is a lovely town with a long history. …. From pre-Revolutionary War to Civil War (As the Union Army approached the city, the wealthy landowners left, fearing the destruction that other southern cities experienced. Left behind was their property, including the now freed slaves. The Union Army occupied the town for the rest of the war. The city homes of the plantation owners were now used as hospitals, billets, offices, etc. In the St Helena Episcopal Church cemetery, the horizontal slabs of the above ground tombs were frequently used as operating tables) to WWI (70% of Marines were trained at nearby Paris Island Marine Base) to the present day “servicing” tourists and the military at Paris Island and the Marine Air Station across the River. Our afternoon of touring Beaufort with Teri was pre-empted with her chauffeuring me to the local Med-Check. For @ 60 hours had been experiencing Strep throat symptoms which were not improving. DX=a good viral respiratory infection, treated with Publix acquired OTC meds. We did get to walk around the waterfront area of town. /this included a lovely waterfront park with walkways, “adult” swings, amphitheater and lots of restaurants to chose from for dinner. Enjoyed a delicious meal of Grilled Lobster-Teri, “gourmet” Grits with Shrimp and Cheese and Risotto with Ginger Seared Scallops-Bonnie. I also enjoyed a cocktail called the Remedy (sounded like what the MD ordered)-Gin, St Germaine, Lime and Pomegranate juice. I did feel better afterwards!

Beaufort, SC Waterfront Park

Beaufort waterfront homes from 1800's

06/28/13: Met Teri for breakfast at 0800 at Blackstone’s-her favorite breakfast stop-and it was yummy. She then gave us an extensive windshield tour of the Beaufort area, including the neighboring Islands. Included was a stop at a Hunting Island State Park (was an island used for hunting-thus its name) wildlife area/beach. There is an impressive Lighthouse. Climbing it was tempting but who needs to spend $2 when the heat index is 100 degrees! Bonnie got a chance to see another gator! Departed at 1300 for an anchorage (Steamboat Creek) on Edisto Island, about 35 miles south of Charleston. Following an uneventful cruise of 5 hours and 34 miles we anchored in a superbly sheltered cove on the Creek. Was a dinghy dock less than ½ mile distant so 1^st act was to take dogs ashore for their constitutionals. This heat is certainly curbing our appetites but I had thawed pork chops to grill so had Grilled Curried seasoned Pork Chops and Curried rice, lentils, black beans, onions, squash pilaf. We managed to eat only ½ made so, voila=a future dinner salad is ready to go with just the addition of lettuce and tomatoes!