09/15/12 Off at 1130 on a cloudy, cool morning. On the way to an intermediate stop about 40 miles downstream. Much barge traffic, all upstream; we have yet to pass a downstream tow. Great new tool, AIS, tells me where traffic is w/in 10 mile radius; name of vessel, location, speed etc. No more blind corners. Arrived in the rain at Kaskasia Lock (tied up to wall) at 1515 hours after a run of 37 miles.
I woke to a beautiful sunrise
over the Mississippi. Many tows with their barges passed going up and down
river during the night. Began the day with an hour walk through Kimmswick.
After all the activity from the night before, it was peaceful and
quiet…..easier to imagine what it might have been like in 1859. We had a
leisurely morning as with only 42 miles to go, why hurry. Also wanted to let
the “girls” get a chance for another walk as tonight we are tied to the
Kaskaskia Lock’s dock-meaning it’s a dinghy ride for a puppy potty ashore.
Turned out the Lock Master said we could let them use the concrete wall as long
as we cleaned it up…but is not their idea of a place to pee. This is the ONE
challenge we face—as do others with 4 legged critters. Stay tuned. If it
weren’t for this dock it would be a 157 mile run down to the first still above
water anchorage---that would be iffy for us in daylight hours. Late afternoon a
55ft Trawler arrived at the wall with us. Is a couple with a 6 year old
daughter—and dog---from Brazil. They left Brazil 6 years ago---via South
America, the Caribbean, picked up the Loop in FL. When finished with the Loop
in FL they will then head to Europe. Tomorrow will be a long day, starting with
first light-117 miles to the mouth of the Ohio and an anchorage.
Dinner: Filet Cherbourg (burgers
with mushrooms and blue cheese), fresh vegetable sauté (asparagus, corn,
squash, onions, garlic, basil and rosemary). The green “keep your produce fresh
bags” have kept my own basil and purchased romain fresh for 2+weeks!
Miles this Leg; 37; Total Miles; 1,389
09/16/12: Off the lock wall at 0650. Grey day, light drizzle, visibility <1 mile. Winds light. Stayed that way for the first 90 miles. Long run, no safe haven for 1st
120 miles. Checked out an
anchorage at confluence of Mississippi & Ohio rivers….passed it by as too
exposed to wake of passing tows.
Went on up Ohio R. for about 15 miles. At 1530 we anchored just short of lock #53 in seven feet of water,
safely way from continuing barge traffic.
Am now (2130 CDT) sitting in snug cockpit w/ last of dinner wine and
watching the endless stream of tows (barges + Tugboats) go up/down thru the
lock. Tomorrow should see us in
Green Turtle Bay on Kentucky Lake.
Each time we leave one of OUR
rivers, it is a wee bit bittersweet. I had no images of the Illinois River
before we cruised its waters but the mighty Mississippi, of course.
Recently, I had heard and read in
cruisers’ logs that it was scary (current, whirlpools, debris, snags under
water), not scenic and most was a concrete levy type wall that blocked any
view. Well, with the water so low, much of the water risks weren’t there though
one had to watch for deadheads (logs going downstream, etc). We both found the
“sights” not necessarily exciting but was pretty and varied. High levies and flood
walls did protect cities and blocked close up views. With this huge body of
water, I was surprised by the lack of marinas at any cities---just sporadic
boat ramps. And cruising by St Louis was a bit exciting! Our recommended
anchorage was nice and close enough to shore to dinghy the dogs ashore. My,
what an adventure! The girls readily hopped in; Jada readily hopped out in @ a
foot of water (both on leashes and I had already hopped, realizing I was going
to get wetter than planned; Bill is at the dinghy’s helm). Haleigh likes to get
wet at her time and choosing and just stood balanced on the dinghy sides
thinking about this. She looked absolutely offended when I “encouraged” her
into the water! After all, she CAN swim! Well the sandy looking beach was more
like sandy brown MUD. I did find about 5 different wildflowers plants scattered
among the muddy banks—very lovely but no camera. Bill joined us and the girls
made the trip 50 % successful. We all got back onboard the dinghy, mud and all.
It took about 30 min to get the mud off the girls-easy, us a little more
difficult but the dinghy was a muddy bloody mess. We need to work on this
routine. Our anchorage provided us with a good view of all the nighttime barge
traffic on the Ohio. Dinner: Curried lentils/ vegetable sauté with rice and
black beans.
Miles this Leg; 119; Total Miles; 1,508
09/17: While still at anchor next to Lock 53, we contacted
lock at 0630, entered lock at 0705 and on the way at 0750. Grey skies, lowering clouds, drizzle;
visibility <1/2 mile. (Got a “low battery” warning at 0815 so shut down inverter
and preceded. More on electrical
issues will follow in subsequent posts as we find out causes and cure$.) Contacted
Lock 52 about 5 miles away, were told to hustle as they were loading a tow and
a pleasure craft…if we got there they could do us too. Hustled at 20 kts (fastest ever for us
on the Elissa II) and made the lock at 0925, out and on the way by 1005. An hour and a half later we left the
Ohio and turned south on the Cumberland River, the home stretch for this
portion of the voyage. Three miles short of the Barkley Lock and 5 miles short of
our destination at Green Turtle Bay Marina, our tanks went dry, engine
quit. My fault: I had
underestimated range available on fuel supply. Candidly, I never would have programmed a trip that got me
below 20 gallons remaining out of a 192 gallon tank. Fortunately, we carry to reserve tanks of 18 gallons each so
we were able to drop the anchor and pump 5 additional gallons into main
tank. A delay of only 30 minutes
but a good lesson about the importance of CONSERVATIVE estimates. We arrived at the Marina at 1515
following a run made mostly in drizzle/fog and low visibility. Sure could have used the radar but it
was victim of the electrical issues too.
Wow-what an interesting day.
Called into the Lock Master at Lock 53 0635 to learn status of lock traffic
(the past week had seen 2.5 hr waits here). “Stay put. Have a tow leaving and
I’ll get you in”!!!!!! And we did get in and out in 45 min! Experienced more
moving barge traffic here than anywhere else. The next lock a few miles up
river, Lock 52, is the busiest in the US! Waits here have averaged 4.5 hours.
Well, called them and were told “have a PC waiting and a tow leaving so if you
can get here within 15 min I’ll lock you in”. Well, this is when one doesn’t
worry toooo much @ cost of diesel. Instead of our preferred cruising speed of
8-10 KTS / hr, Bill had it up to @ 17.5 kph. Yep got there and locked thru, all
in 5 min!!! It seemed like no time
before we had passed the Tennessee River and entered the Cumberland River to
Lake Barkley Dam. From there it
was 1 mile to Green Turtle Bay---a huge one, has everything one needs—marina,
resort complex. There are lots of loopers here—a good place to take time to
smell the roses kind of place. Many have been here a week, relaxing or visiting
the area’s attractions. Did some laundry—yep, that doesn’t go away, walked the
girls through a park like setting and then fixed dinner: Mediterranean
couscous/beans with curried tomato sauce, sautéed tomatoes, onion, garlic,
carrots and peppers, complimented with a Pinot Grigio! We are here—our
destination for this first part of our 2nd leg of the Loop. Will get
the Elissa II scrubbed down (do boats need constant cleaning!); an electrical
problem checked out; a couple days to veg then will head back to Indy,
returning here Oct 6 to resume this leg!
Miles this Leg; 61; Total Miles; 1,569
09/18 – 09/21:
We will spend next few days
relaxing, catching up on maintenance & deferred correspondence and
exploring the area on our bikes.
We will return to Indy on the 21st. We are planning to return to GTB on 6 October and set forth
on the next phase- GTB to Demopolis, AL with stop at the AGLCA Rendezvous
October 21 -24 (about 200 miles from here). Will resume daily reporting then unless something
extraordinary should occur; Started my
day with an aquatic zumba class! Have always wanted to try zumba so since it
came with our dockage, why not! Great fun. Have 2.5 weeks to make up for a
non-cardio lifestyle aboard the Elissa II. Just by being aboard a boa,t there
are strength training and balance activities! The Elissa II is nice and clean,
shiny and white and de-doghaired. That will last for @ 12 hours!
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