II.
Leg 2 of the Great Loop
(Northport MI to Demopolis, AL)
Text in black is Bill, in blue, Bonnie and in red, particularly important stuff.
09/03: Departed N.Port 1205 under sunny skies
w/seas 1-2 ft, wind S/SW light <10 kts. Arrived Leland Harbor at 1455 after uneventful run of some
28 miles. Why only 28 miles on
such a lovely day. Well, Leland is
a special place for our family. I
spent my first summer here in 1940 (pre-nataly), Bonnie & I honeymooned
here and for our Army brat kids this was the closest they could find to having
a permanent home. So, though we
actually started the voyage yesterday, today it will be a “symbolic” start. We
can now add these 28 miles to the 703 loop miles we did in 2010.
Miles this Leg: 28, Total Miles, 731
Ah,
Leland----is a bit bittersweet realizing that it will probably be 2 years
before we get back here but we do have adventures ahead. Haleigh and Jada and I
took a Leland stroll -when I can, I try to get my 10,000 steps in. The town was
nearly empty @ 6 PM which was amazing compared to the Sunday Labor Day crowds.
Big disappointment was that the Harbor House (and most everything else) closed
at 6 PM-thus no last HH ice cream cone. Dinner on board was chicken breasts
sautéed with tomatoes, onions, bok choy, fresh basil, rosemary and lots of
garlic, fresh Leelanau corn on the cob and tossed salad seasoned with herbs
brought from my garden.
09/04: Departed Leland 0840; warm, clearing;
wind light/variable, seas calm.
Around 1300 and some 60 miles on, clouds returning, chilly w/winds
increasing. Now about 10 kts, a
little chop but seas remain < 2’.
About 30 miles (2 hours) to go to reach Pentwater MI, our chosen harbor
for the night. Pentwater is a
delightful area, arrived @1400, filled up on diesel L
and settled in for the night.
Am learning that walking the furry girls soon as we arrive
enables me to case our new surroundings—and attempt more of my 10,000
steps/day. Hard to do on a boat! Most shops, incl ice cream stands, closed at 5
PM so we saved a bit of $$$$. Our dinner was poached salmon with Sweeney garden
herbs, Northport corn on the cob and tossed veg salad. Of course, all
accompanied with a nice glass of Chardonnay
Miles this Leg: 102 Total Miles, 833
09/05: Away at 0830 enroute from Pentwater to
Whitehall MI, another lovely place.
Arrived at 11:45. Town
& Marina are located at far end of a small lake. Both were most enjoyable,
enjoyment enhanced by meeting four other “looper” couples, one of whom had
already completed the loop once before.
All went out to dinner and we three novices learned a lot from the
veterans.
Miles this Leg; 31 Total Miles; 864 Hmmmm,
Bill didn’t mention the rockin’ and rollin’ all the way to White Lake….so much
so the girls lost their breakfast. Also, major storms with 40 mph wind and golf
ball size hail were forecasted so we did shorten the day. Whitehall is a cute
little town with a fascinating General Store and a Walgreens that’s like the 5
and 10 from the 1950’s. There is a renovation underway of a 3 story 1878
beautiful home. They plan to open it as a B&B in 2013. Oh yes---the storms
never happened and it was a glorious day for exploring Whitehall by foot.
09/06: Away at 0730 enroute to Michigan City, IN, the
“jumping off” point for entry into the Ship Canal and the Illinois River. Lovely day, clear, 70 Degrees, winds
@10 kts on the beam. Made “high
speed” run at 16 Kts to cover the 100 plus miles to leave us some shopping room
at the end. Was important to get that far south so we can get off the lake
BEFORE nasty weather from Friday afternoon until (not sooner than) Monday
AM. Arrived 1530, filled up again L
and pumped out holding tank then settled in for the day. We are in a very large and well kept
Marina surrounded by an equally well kept Municipal Park. Long way from other commercial services
however as Bonnie will address herein. Cruising across open waters can get a little boring but
Haleigh decided to make it interesting. With no land in sight she tried to get
our attention by barking. She was successful in indicating she wanted to go for
a walk. Hmm, that wasn’t going to work. Poor baby, she had the beginnings of a
major gastro-intestinal upset. The only positive thing was on a boat one can
just hose it down. (‘scuse the grahics). The Municipal Park afforded us good
walking territory and we hoped this was just a passing “whatever”. Bill and I
then took a cab to Verizon store to replace our MiFi as we could not get
internet connectivity anywhere. Also made a stop at Menards for “oh those would
be a good idea” items. Our driver was a native Michigan cityer and part of the
Chamber of Commerce. There just may be more to MC than one would think!. Dinner
was sautéed garlic chicken smothered with (leftover) chili. And Haleigh,
holding her own, sort of.
Miles this Leg; 117 Total Miles; 972
09/07: Dawn broke with black clouds
approaching from the west as well as severe T’Storm warning for bottom end of
L. Mich. Waited out the storms,
they moved off to east and we finally left Mich. City at 1045 under partly
sunny skies and south winds at 10 kts.
Arrived at the channel leading to Calumet River SAG Canal (connects with
the Chicago Canal downstream) and actually entered the Canal (MM332) at 1255
following a 26 mile run at 16 kts.
Skies remained threatening and forecasts were full of gloom about more
severe T’storms. We elected to
hunker down, so proceeded thru 1st Lock (a less than 20 minute
process) and stopped at a Marine Service facility at MM 324. Weather for tomorrow, AM looks bleak
with 20 knot winds, gusts to 40.
Afternoon is tentatively favorable, so hope to get under way then. Due to trying to avoid afternoon storms, we decided
to save a couple hours and not go through Chicago via the ship canal. While
disappointed, we have been fortunate to take the Architectural Tour on the
Chicago River so being safe was more prudent—but would have been fun. HOWEVER,
I found going on the Calumet River SAG Canal a fascinating study in yesterday’s
and today’s river commerce and industry.
The scope and size literally took my breath away. Our chosen Marina was
described as being in a pleasant Basin and provided a courtesy vehicle. The
latter sounded especially good, as Haleigh needed a trip to a vet. The Basin
was pretty as described until you made a 180 degree turn and one side, behind a
large boat storage shed, was, no less, a landfill towering over us. This was in
the making and ones nearby were towering hills covered with grass……with
strategically placed vents to release the gases. (why can’t we harness all that
energy?). In the loaned truck, Haleigh and I made our way to Sibley Street
Animal Hospital in Calumet City. The Vet was wonderful (a former Army brat) and
after 500 cc’s of IV fluid, 2 shots and meds in hand (and minus some $$$$), we
headed back to the Elissa II. Arrived at the Marina and found the gate closed
and LOCKED! Hmmm, looked like Haleigh and I would be in a hotel…NOT in Calumet
City. Fortunately a van arrived who had a boat there and got us inside. Had a
few words the next AM with the Marina rep. Jada greeted Haleigh with much
concern and deference. The noise and aroma from our surroundings left a bit to
be desired but the use of the truck made up for it. Once dark we viewed the
lights of Chicago----at first we thought it was the sunset but, duh, wrong
direction. I loved the excitement of Chicago when we lived there and visited
Melissa and Tim but never realized I probably never saw a star. Dinner:
Meatloaf, pan seared smashed garlic and cilantro red skin potatoes and tossed
salad, a Sissons Shortbread Tug cookie.
Miles this Leg; 39 Total Miles; 1,011 (YAY for our 1st thousand)
09/08 Had a late start as had to visit local Verizon store
to replace faulty MiFi Router as we are critically dependent on internet access,
not only for communication, but its integral to our nav electronics. Finally under way at 1100 on a
magnificent early autumn day, cool, bright sunshine and brisk breeze. Covered 49 miles in 6 hours, arriving
at 3 Rivers Marina (neat, rustic, has both gas & diesel) at 1700. Of the 6 hours, we spent 2.5 hours
(waiting to get in or actually locking down) at the two locks on the
route. When we passed the last of
the locks we suddenly left behind the commercial/industrial setting of the
greater Chicago area and began to move thru rural, wooded country J. This
is a day of transitions from yesterday’s scenery to lazy river life and rural
scenery. Went thru our first significant American (Corps of Engineers) lock. We
will be passing through 8 locks on the Illinois River that lower boats a total
of 163 feet from Lake Michigan to the Mississippi River. Due to river commerce, they are MUCH
bigger than those on the Trent Severn Waterway in Canada. Lock master was very
helpful in telling me how to use the floating ballard—a large floating cylinder
that I wrap a line around and it goes down (or up depending which way you are
going) with us—keeps the boat somewhat stationary and next to the wall. Also
with the commercial traffic, one can wait several hours to pass through a lock.
The Tows and their barges (most several football fields in length) have
priority as their companies pay for the locks’ operation. For every 2 tows that
go through, one pleasure craft can then be permitted. River marinas are much
different than those we are used to on the Great Lakes. Those are usually
managed by the State, Village or Province and are pretty well established
facilities. So far, on the River, they have been privately owned with minimal
facilities except for a dock with power and water. We made it to Three Rivers
Marina, which was surrounded by a State Preserve/Park. The setting was lovely,
the seasonal boaters there VERY friendly and welcoming (Many from Chicago
area), newish floating docks surrounded by “rustic” facilities and sunken docks
and boats. Harry, the owner, could not have been more helpful or informative
re: inside river info. He even offered to take us to a grocery store in the AM
if needed. Dinner: Green curry with chicken and vegs and
basil/mozzarella/tomato salad .
Miles this Leg; 39 Total Miles; 1,050
09/09: Topped of the tank w/50 gallons of diesel and got on
the way at 0820 under clear skies & stiff breeze from the west. On the way to Ottowa, IL reputed to be
quaint small town & worth the time to visit. Plan to spend Monday there as a lay day as we have lots of
routine maintenance, correspondence and blog prep. Short run of 4 miles got us to 1st lock of the
two we need to pass today. Arrived
at the very nice Heritage Harbor Marina at MM 244 at . Traveled (except when in or waiting to
enter locks) at 8.5 kts. Took us 7
hours to cover 36 miles for avg.
actual speed of 5.2 kts, the result of
transiting locks. For
planning purposes, we will add 1.5 hours/lock when planning our daily runs. Learning more re: tows and the barges they push up
river. Today one was so large it they split the barges in half, sent first
group up. Then the lock lowered to pick up the rest of the barges and the
tow----quite an impressive sight as they “cruised” past the “pool” above the
lock where we had waited for @ an hour. Very pastoral scenes on the river
today. Met a couple Loopers as we cruised….one from Sandwich, MA. Decided to
stay at this Marina as needed to do laundry and pump out—services they provide.
This is a Residential/Marine planned community
(homes/townhomes/cottages/marina/pool/ restaurant etc) that opened in
2007---not a good year but they have somehow survived. Our dockage fee was
$1.25/ft which also incl the pumpout which often costs $15They provided us a
new Dodge van to go into Ottawa (3 miles away) for me to do laundry and pick up
some more items that will tweak our comfort (like something to carry clean
laundry back in—a collapsible basket works). By the time I got back we took the
easy way out and ate at the Marina’s restaurant which was excellent and
relaxing.
Miles this Leg; 36, Total Miles 1086
09/10: Lay day in Heritage Harbor. Lay days are nice but busy once one gets moving! Spent
the AM doing misc boat chores (incl marking the anchor chain and rode (rope)
and play Frisbee with Jada in a nearby open field-she loved that! After lunch I
went to the office to pay for an extra night and get the keys for the van for
another trip into Ottawa-this time to play tourist. The Manager said tonight
was on them because “we have been so nice”….hmmmm??!! It’s not like we are
going to be returning to play on the river here—just an awfully nice gesture.
Spent a couple hours on the Walking Tour ---Ottawa has some beautiful 1800
architecture in homes, churches and office buildings. Founder of the Boy Scouts
lived here; in 1838 a historic
leader of the town arrived penniless and with hard work made a fortune,
reinvesting much back into the community. Went to the town docks and met other
Loopers---one was the couple from Sandwich, MA. We do become a family of new
friends. Dinner: herb and garlic grilled pork chops, rosemary sautéed asparagus
with grated carrots and tossed salad.9 Defintiely recommend this place to fellow loopers. BTW, We checked out the Town Wall with courtesy car, found three loopers and also found that there was room for only 4 boats (unless rafting) and there was construction site immediately south of area. That said, Ottawa was a lovely little town to explore.
Miles this Leg; 0 Total Miles; 1,086
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