Log of the ELISSA II: Georgetown SC to New Bern, NC 7/3-7/813

07/03/13: Best weather since Jacksonville, good thing as we made a long (94 mile, 11 hour) run today to get close enough to celebrate Independence Day w/ JoAnn Davis on Topsail Island. Scattered clouds, light winds from astern and even a few widely scattered T’storms on radar, none of which even came close. Most of day was spent in waters more like we saw on the St Johns River (wooded islands, wildlife abundant Nat’l & State preserves etc.; no more savannas/salt marshes-a nice change of pace). We arrived in a well-sheltered anchorage about 4 miles from Southport, NC around 1800 – dogs were most eager to climb into the dinghy for short 100-yard trip ashore for their romp. Was a day of contrasts: coastal marsh lands, maritime forests with pine and cypress swamps, Myrtle beach, SC craziness and glitz and the quiet of Oak Island as we passed by to Southport. We noticed Oak Island more than expected as our friends Mike and Jan Doble (he was a Company Cdr of Bill’s at Ft Jackson) and family are arriving in 3 days for a 2 week vacation here. If you want a peaceful coastal location, this would be it. Approaching Southport we were hailed by the Creeches on C-Life. They are Looper Harbor Hosts at Southport, SC and if we were going to dock (we had already chosen to anchor out) they were offering local hospitality. We had met them at the Fall 2012 Looper Rendezvous at Joe Wheeler State Park, AL.

Homes along the ICW

Should return in 5 years and check out the Landscaping

Colorful :)

A vehicle for fun

07/04/13: Second “best weather day” in a row for the last push to Topsail Island and the JoAnn Davis family. Left anchorage at 0705 on way to Southport Marina about a 45-minute process (4 miles and time for dog walk & diesel fill up). Back on the way at 0750. Traffic on AICW already heavy, endless processions of small, fast bass boats & Jet Skis, lots of families, some going too fast for conditions, all seemingly unconcerned by congestion. . The water traffic in Wrightsville Beach area was crazy! It wasn’t even 10 AM; small boats LOADED with what seemed like too many people; drinking from lots of beer looking bottles; zigzagging / cutting in front of each other-no sense of rules of the “road”; no observance of “no wake “ zones=big wakes=stuff flying all over, incl us. Tow Boat US were seen running all over the waterway. Lots of sand bars make running aground when not paying attention create lucrative $$ days for local “towers”! On other hand, it was a wonderful day for a boat ride; bright, sunny, cooling breezes and best of company. Was glad to be safely tucked into a slip on Topsail by 1445 as the boat handling that we observed on the way was likely tame compared to what things will be when the Skippers are sorta “likkered up”? Cleaned up selves and boat & were then picked up by JoAnn for family dinner at their beach house. JoAnn is part of Bill’s Burtonwood England “gang”-1967-68. We have been fortunate to have shared family times over the years. Thus, having the good fortune to arrive at Topsail when DeeDee, Burton and Mandy were there with their families made this visit extra special. We enjoyed a wonderful dinner of grilled shrimp and grouper.

Sand Bar Beaching

CRAZY boat traffic

Laid back ICW traffic

Topsail Island Light

They had a water pump to get water to the top of the Sand Slide!

PARTY

Lovely boat

Lawn art

Yeah-CALIFORNIA

Fun on the sand bar

Davis's Topsail Beach

07/05/13: Lay Day on Topsail. Maintenance time in AM (replace old & worn anchor rode) and beach time in the afternoon with JoAnn & family. Our slip on Topsail was in Surf City and not exactly at a Marina. Marinas in the area were full but we had been referred to “Gregg” who happened to be a vacation rental property manager. Some properties had slips that if unused were “rented out” for the needed visit. We had power and water and were on the east side of the bridge over the ICW-best for meeting friends on Topsail and avoiding the HEAVY holiday traffic over the ICW. (anyone reading this and wants Gregg’s info, email us) It was a lovely beach day. The Davis grandchildren were fun to be with and were very inclusive with these “unknown” friends in their various activities. Mandy had visited friends who had caught a record number of Blue Crabs—she brought home a cooler with the surplus. JoAnn googled “cooking crabs” and Bill/Burton combo proceeded to follow her directions, beginning with” place in freezer for a more humane way to cook them”. Jane did a wonderful job of cleaning them for us to then pick at—and that IS how one eats Blue Crabs-at least this kind. We picked and picked and got little meat BUT what we did get was sweet and delicious.

Cooler of crabs

Loely beach day

Burton and Bill and Dueling Crabs!

with JoAnn Davis

Joint family Birthday celebrations!

Maybe if I am quiet I'll get another piece of Rum Cake!

07/06/13: OK, we are on a “weather roll” – 4 straight days of sun, breezes for cooling but not enough for significant wave action J. We left at 0730 on the way to the Beaufort/Morehead City area, an intermediate stop as the Neuse River and New Bern (and visits with the Brimmers & Dettors) being our intended destination. ICW crowded and “active” with squadrons of small, fast bass boat type vessels and the sandy banks covered with beached boats and sun burned bodies. Arrived at Beaufort (pronounced “Bofort” as compared to “Bewfort”, Beaufort, SC) 7 hours and 59 miles later. Untended to anchor out but none of the anchorages we found were suitable; so we diverted into the Beaufort City Dock Marina. What a great decision (thanks Bonnie, Navigator Supremo of the Elissa II). The compact downtown area was littered with homes on the National Register as well as a number of galleries, shops and dining establishments. In AM will head “up the Neuse” to see our friends. Beaufort was a delightful, though touristy busy on the docks, historic stop. The buildings are lovely, yet modest in design. We wandered the streets and visited an old cemetery, which yielded its own form of local history-Union and Civil War casualties, women who died in childbirth, and children who did not live beyond 2 years. Interestingly, the Sisters of Mercy from New York, established hospitals along the coast (incl New Bern, up the Neuse). As the afternoon progressed we had many “visitors” to the Elissa II. Most recognized our “Loopers” burgee and wanted to talk about it-dreamers of doing it, one who had done it and one who started in 2008 and works a year, Loops a year and will eventually complete it. See, it does not need to be completed in 12 months! After an onboard dinner of fajitas, we walked the docks with the “girls” as everyone else. Two good bands created a festive ambiance. There were several MEGA yachts also in the Marina-gawking at them was added to the fun people gawking!

Another ICW home and boat

Condos where we docked

Warning for passing through the Camp Lejeune Marine Base open firing range. ICW can be closed for several hours

They must not read those signs...are walking just beyond those signs warning about unexploded ordnances and to remain in your boats!

Trashed vehicle following target practice

One's own personal sand bar...and heaven

Duck Blind

Door in Beaufort

Modest Beaufort home

Grave of a mother and newborn

MEGA Yacht

07/07/13: Yet another fine day (keep waiting for the other boot to drop) for a 5 hour, 48 mile cruise up the Neuse River to New Bern and Army friends who reside in the area. We met and served with John and Elaine Brimmer at Ft. Ben Harrison. Charles and Ruth Dettor were neighbors on the Presidio of San Francisco in 1972. Their daughters were Elizabeth’s first babysitters. Our first sailing on the Chesapeake Bay was with them in the late 1970’s. We then met them in the Bahamas in Jan 1993-we were chartering in the Abacos and they sailed from FL on their sloop, Mattie Christian. They had a wonderful adventure for 10-11 years sailing from the US to Europe; wintering one year in downtown London; cruising Europe and finishing the journey in Croatia. Our paths have continued to cross over the years and our reunions are nothing less than joyful.

The Dettor Marina

Harbormaster Charles welcoming us

Assistant Harbormaster Ruth fine tuning our slip accomodations

07/08/13: LAY DAY in New Bern. Began the day at the Dettor Marina Laundry! They have a slip behind their condo that we “slipped” into the afternoon before. John Brimmer picked us up for lunch-Elaine was suffering from a virus that had been going around the family L. We had a great lunch at Chelsey’s. I usually have crab cakes when in this part of the world as everyone fixes them slightly different. Since Pensacola I have discovered Shrimp and Grits-YUMMY! Have enjoyed them with just added cheese to these, which had sautéed tomatoes, peppers and onions added. While John gave Bill a windshield tour of New Bern (followed by Bill making a West Marine and grocery trip with Charles), I began a foot tour of New Bern, settled in the early 1770 by Swiss Immigrants from Bern-thus many “Bears” around town (like Cincinnati Pigs, Indy cars, etc). I began at the Tryon Palace (was the Capitol for awhile; burned in 1798 and reconstructed in the mid 1950’s) and gardens. This was followed by the Austin Stanly Home, birthplace of Confederate General Ambrose Armistead. Having lived on Armistead Dr at the Presidio of San Francisco and having walked Pickett’s Last Charge at Gettysburg-the battle where Gen Armistead was mortally wounded July 3, 1863, I was feeling a connection, of sorts! I returned to the Dettors in a zigzag route, enjoying all the lovely historical homes along the way.
We enjoyed another lovely evening at Marina Dettors. With Melissa in DC next year, we will both have daughters living in DC so can look forward to another "reunion".

Tryon Palace