Log of the ELISSA II: July 14-20, 2014 NJ ICW, Long Island/Shelter Island/Sag Harbor

07/14: Departed Cape May at 0840 to take advantage of a rising tide. If you time it right – leave northbound @ 2 hours BEFORE high tide at your departure location – you can gain up to 2+ additional MPH for a normal throttle setting that produces about 8 MPH. Conversely, time it just wrong and an ebbing tide can cut your speed over the ground by an equal amount. We had blustery conditions (inside the ICW things were gusty but most of the route is protected from seriously high wind/wave conditions found on the “outside” route up the coast on the Ocean. Outside it was a steady SW wind at 10-15 with gusts up to 30. Waves (swells actually) were 3-5 feet. The Jersey ICW was hammered by Hurricane Sandy in 2012 and while most of the debris that initially rendered the waterway impassable has been removed there remains some tricky spots and unmarked shoals. In other words, it was not a day to turn on the autopilot and kick back with the Kindle. We travelled much of the day in the wake of a Canadian trawler, the Calypso that was also heading for an overnight in Atlantic City. We arrived in a lovely little cove we learned about from Kitty and Henry we had met in Cape May, just inside the Ocean Inlet and off Rum Point and across from a Harrah’s which was lit up in a rainbow of changing colors. Tomorrow I expect more of the same kind of weather as we continue on our way to Long Island Sound. Bonnie: Last evening a rather large 140ft “Super Yacht” arrived, the Lady Gayle Marie. Eight passengers and 3 crewmen were seen disembarking..and returning later following what must have been dinner ashore. Learned she belonged to Tom Benson, owner of the New Orleans Saints!! I googled him and the yacht (his wife’s name) - an interesting self-made man. Photos of the Yacht are posted on the previous blog of Cape May. Passing through the NJ ICW gave us a chance to see all the rebuilding brought about following Sandy. +95% of homes seem to all have new exteriors, roofs, windows and trim! This anchorage was to be a perfect spot as there was an easy to reach beach to romp Jada. Alas, poor Jada, the wind and waves were such that safety overshadowed physiology and the poor girl just waited until the next morning. She has yet to take the opportunity to use the boat, which is an easy wash off. The passing thunderstorm and glittering lights of Atlantic City entertained us. One would have thought that it has continued to be a happening town. However, on the radio there was a major discussion re: the gaming rooms being empty, crime up and the real potential of a sad demise of Atlantic City.

Duck Blind

Markers for shifting shoals

Dredging is continual following Sandy

You've just gotta love fishing!!

Harrahs in Atlantic City

Atlantic City Coast Guard

07/15: 0810 we raised the anchor & travelled 2+ miles across the inlet to the Casino Marina fuel dock, grabbed ice and topped of tank w/64 gallons. Got back on the route at 0900 on a windy, hazy day. The entire route required meticulous attention to precise location to avoid shoals and/or debris left over from Sandy. Though we had numerous depth readings at 5, even 4.5 feet beneath us we only scraped the bottom (soft mud) a couple of times. We turned off of the ICW into Tom’s River and went up stream for about 4 miles the Shore Point Marina. We were in slip after 6.5 hours and 54 miles. ADDENDUM: As we were making our approach to the Marina I thought I detected “hitches” in the steering when turning. Once we were securely moored I checked: Sure enough, there was hydraulic fluid in the bilge and the reservoir way dry. Contacted Harbormaster just as they were closing, explained problem and asked if he had repair staff. Answer: “Sure do, will be over shortly after 8:00. We should be able to fix it quickly”. So, we may or may not get off to Long Island tomorrow; will have to wait & see. More to follow. Bonnie: What can I say—“we are on a boat”!! We were quite aways up the river yet one could see the effects of Sandy. One marina at the mouth had been totally destroyed. It has taken 2 years to rebuild. Was a lovely sunset!

My Basil, Parsley and Lemon Balm garden

Sunset over Toms River NJ

07/16: Lay Day, awaiting replacement Hydraulic Ram for steering system, due in tomorrow AM, hope to be away by 1200. Bonnie: I spent a good part of the day walking into “town” which am not sure where one town (or borough) started and one ended. It was almost 2 miles to the highway where there was any commercial development: hardware store (Needed refills to our bug repellants plus something to control these horrendous horse flies that are swarming. In these here parts, they are called green flies and this is their seasonal swarm and they do bite and I seem to swell up like hives with one bite), drug stores (Hydrocortisone cream for the bites) and whatever. There was no “center”, just intermittent stores for @ 1-2 miles along a highway…..at least that’s what I walked to find my items. The return walk was 1.5 miles—is interesting how Google’s navigation can go to and from the same place but different routes recommended depending upon the direction!!

Nature Preserve enroute to Hardware Store

07/17: Tech arrived w/replacement part for steering at 0930. Installed same & bled system, declared ready at 1100. On our way to Long Island at 1130 on a beautiful day for the open ocean crossing. Took about 2 hours on the last stretch of the ICW (slow going, lots of no wake zones at 5 MPH) to get to the Masaquan Inlet, our access point to the Atlantic, the a 2.5 hour run at 16 MPH to the mouth of Jones Inlet to the south shore of the Island. Had 3 – 4 foot swells coming from behind with little to no conflicting winds or currents – was a sleigh ride, surfing down the face of the swells. Proceeded NE inside the protective barrier Islands, past almost all of Jones Beach Island. Steve Capalbo met us on a Jet Ski to guide us for the last few miles to the Capalbo compound (two houses on Neguntatogue Cr. off of the Great South Bay of the Island). We arrived, were welcomed by Steve’s Mom, Alice, who raised him in one of the two homes and tucked into a slip in the back yard, complete with 30 amp shore power. Both houses were devastated by Sandy and completely rebuilt. Both are lovely, in a perfect setting, enhanced by Alice’s green thumb. Carolyn Capalbo arrived later that night after we had crashed and we are looking forward to a “play day” with them tomorrow. Bonnie: While the Elissa II underwent a steering repair Jada and I took off up river----which turned out to be a lovely 4 mile RT walk along beaches, a bike path, “new” homes, etc. Since we normally cruise at 8 MPH, this 16 MPH was (a noisy) change but served the purpose to make up time from the repair. Once past Sandy Hook could see NYC on the horizon with the new Tower rising prominently over the “lesser” buildings. Steve had given me the address so between the charts and Google Navigation I could see exactly where his house was. However , how cool is it to have your own personal escort service lead the way!!!! In addition to Steve and Alice, Blake Capalbo, one of the triplets last seen 16 yrs ago when they were 5 y/o, was also there. Conveniently, he has an architectural internship for the summer on the Island! Just as we completed tying off the lines, a Swan family came by for their evening treats!

Sandy's damage continues to be seen. So many haven't the funds to repair/replace their homes

The Atlantic!!

New York City

One of those NASTY horse flies/deer flies/green flies!!!

Jones beach Light

Here comes our escort!!!!

A little tow given the last bit "home"

07/18: Lay Day w/Capalbo’s. Bonnie: We woke to the usual Cheery Calpalbo greeting and a breakfast of YUMMY pastries from the bakery, which, like everything else in Lindenhurst, is “only 2 minutes away”. We sampled everything, including my first NY hard roll (soft inside crunchy outside), crumb cake-the best and a “Cigar”. What better way to start the day?! After lunch we drove through neighborhoods to see the “Sandy” repairs made to homes, repairs finally being afforded to be done and those homes where there are no $$$ for repairs. We then drove to Cedar Beach and enjoyed sugar sand and big waves…..efforts to be smart and stay dry failed. Somehow getting wet by unexpected waves still results in giggles—since I am 9 inches shorted than Alice, I got much wetter! Steve was the smart one and wore a suit so he thoroughly enjoyed riding the waves! We all enjoyed a wonderful dinner at Momma’s. What a lovely day.

Slip at Capalbo Marina

The "Seniors" at the beach

Personal dock hands

07/19: Had a leisurely (Panera’s Cinnamon Crunch Bagels, delicious) breakfast & chart chat; said our goodbye’s, took the photo ops and moved about 500 yards down the creek to fuel dock at 0850. Pumped diesel in and waste out, departed on the way to Shelter Island anchorage at 0920. Cloudy day, occasional sprinkles of rain, winds NE at 10 – 15, seas 1 – 3ft. Again, route demanded constant attention (very narrow channels thru very skinny water) and plenty of chances to screw up. We ploughed mud 3 times (unreported/marked shoaling to < 2 ft.) and ran hard aground once (my screw up as I “assumed” that a channel marker was so far from charted position that it had drifted). All who have made this run since Sandy have been emphasizing …”trust the buoys, not the chart”. We got off readily enough, used bow thrusters to point us in right direction, then just plowed ahead, but am sure glad we weren’t in Georgian Bay. 8 hours, 66 miles & 1 lock later we dropped the hook in a most delightful anchorage about 2.3 miles from Sag Harbor, NY

Bonnie: Today’s cruise took us through The Hamptons - had fun checking out homes for their $$$ on Zillow—did pass a couple in excess of $10 M! We chose this delightful cove on the SW corner of Shelter Island. It had a great beach for Jada to ball chase/swim. Beautiful sunset and calm evening.

Post Sandy construction

Capalbo farewell

The Hamptons

Leaving canal

Shelter Island beach

Sunset's rosey glow

07/20: We left the anchorage after a leisurely breakfast and boat prep (including a Jada walk) on a 7 mile trip to Sag Harbor. Our plan was to anchor there in the outer Harbor & take Water Taxi into town for a couple of hours, then leave for Block Island. This was not to be. We are still in Sag Harbor (seas in Block Island Sound yesterday were >6' and with very short periods between crests). Learned of conditions from the Water Taxi operator and also learned that a 70 foot mega yacht turned back after experiencing conditions. Forecast for tomorrow is "better" though not benign, so we are going to have a go. Conditions in the outer harbor were very rough as it is not protected from the strong NE winds. Sam Water Taxi operator clued us in on an anchorage inside the seawall and we promptly moved the boat. Was a great decision. Place was very sheltered, had lots of room (with only two other boats overnight, and w/in sight of downtown. Would recommend it to anyone who has an air draft less than 20 ft. (needed to clear a highway bridge). Bonnie: Enjoyed the extended opportunity to leisurely stroll the streets of Sag Harbor and garner a bit of history—American and local. Always think of Massachusetts as the whaling centers but Sag Harbor and Greenport (NW on the other side of Shelter Island) were major whaling centers in their own right. The extra time also gave us the opportunity to enjoy a lunch—mine included Lobster Avocado Spring Rolls with a ginger sesame sauce—yumm. Lobster country!!! Am enjoying these anchorages as I then have the opportunity to row (exercise!!) Jada in calm waters to neat beaches. This one had all sorts of shells – too bad something had already enjoyed the mussels, as there must have been thousands on the beach—empty!! Almost as soon as we dropped anchor, 3 swans came by—one even kept stretching its neck all the way to the edge of the cockpit “requesting” a handout. They certainly had an established pecking order as one swan was not permitted any handout!! They then returned just as Jada and I were getting in the dinghy. I was fearful that Jada would go “crazy” but she essentially ignored them so had a pretty escort for awhile.

Home on Shelter Island